The unbearable lightness of Korean cute
A great city that can feel hollow
I’ve written about Seoul five previous times (Walking Seoul part 1, part 2, part 3, I could live in Seoul, and Seoul Stopover), so for a more positive perspective, please read those.
I love Seoul, which is why I keep coming back, beginning or ending all my Asia trips there1. If actions speak louder than words, then Seoul is my favorite city in the world, since I’ve now visited it seven times in the last four years.
I love Seoul because it’s functional at a level few global cities are. On this last visit, my flight from Xi’an landed at 4:45 p.m. and I was on the train into the city by 5:10 p.m. That train, like all the public transport in Korea, was immaculate, respectful, and efficient. Everyone, with the exception of two Western tourists, was on their best behavior, aware of how their actions impacted others. Simple human courtesy is the glue that holds societies together without the need of the heavy hand of the state (i.e police), and Korea, like most of Asia, has it in spades.
I love Seoul because of the LP bars, especially the Woodstock Vinyl bar in Sillim-dong, the neighborhood I’ve chosen as my second home, which I’ve been to so many times I’ve apparently reached the level of a regular, according to the owner who gifts me popcorn after midnight. How she realized I’m a popcorn fanatic, I’m not sure, since I’ve never ordered it, but she has, and whenever the crowd is down to the hardcore few, they get free shots of scotch2 while I get baskets of popcorn.
I love Seoul for my daily ten mile walk in the riverside ecological park, for the coffee shops, and for the food, which I’d argue if not the best cuisine in the world, is certainly in the top five, along with Japanese, French, Italian, and whatever fourth you choose so you don’t yell at me for forgetting.
Korean cuisine is finally getting the global attention it deserves, although what has trickled into the US (aside from in LA) tends to be focused on a few meat-heavy dishes, or Bibimbap, but there’s so much more to it.