If you haven't read Convenience store women by Sayaka Murata, you should it's a excellent case study of what your talking about regarding the japanese people
Pride as a meaning of life has a lot to speak for it, particularly compared to greed and desire. I've dealt with family owned businesses in both Japan and USA, and particularly when it comes to contracting/constructions, far fewer attempts to rip me off in Japan.
Great piece indeed! As someone married to a Japanese and with over two years of living in Japan, I haven’t quite been able to put these sentiments to words. But you nailed it. I can relate to some of your observations.
Why are Japanese so meticulous across so many facets of life? They are serious and thoughtful. And you are right that it has to start from the household - that includes parenting.
Beware, many of the restaurants that now you still find everywhere will be disappearing in the coming years. As in your first example of a basement izakaya in Fukuoka, the proprietors are old. Outside of the denser urban areas, these are not taken over once the current generation quits but remain empty. Go to smaller towns in Japan and you'll already see tons of empty storefronts. That and the extremely favorable exchange rate, make NOW the time to visit the fascinating Japan you've experienced on this trip again. It will not last and we'll all miss it.
Two asides:
Rather than going with chain hotels that have baths and saunas, level up and use the public neighborhood baths ('sento') that you still find almost everythere in Japan. Most of them are decades old and showing their age but are cared for by some 80yo grandparents who keep them clean. What they offer depends on the local geography but in most cases it's at least two multi-person baths in addition to the sit-on-a-tiny-plastic-seat-and-scrub-your-foreign-body-twice-extra-clean-so-as-not-to-be-glared-at areas where you prepare. Sometimes it's magic scalding hot local mineral water, sometimes it's an electro-shock bath and sometimes it's the owners secret recipe murky carrot/ginger/wild herb bath that will make you 10 years younger. In Tokyo, prices are now up there, running a steep $3-5, in smaller towns it might be just $2. People still walk there from their apartments and return home in their pajamas, fully updated on local news and gossip.
Japan is THE BEST country in the world for hitchhiking. It's totally safe (like everything and everywhere in the Japan that us English speakers will find) and the politeness culture almost forces the Japanese drivers to stop and take you. My son and I have had people do two hour detours to deliver us directly to some out-of-the-way couchsurfing stay. Sometimes the English conversation remains halting and basic, more often it's a chance to hear in their own words how your driver's Japanese world works for them. Take a small dry erase board (or find some cardbord) and copy your destination or a simple 'north' or 'east' kanji and then show them on your phone where you want to go. The only time we waited for more than 15 minutes is when we tried to hitchhike starting in a purely industrial area on the weekend and there was hardly any traffic.
Chris, thank you so much for these posts. I look forward to them in my inbox and love your style.
Thank you so much for this. I’m going to level up next walk to the true public baths. I’m not a full blown convert to them.
I’ve dabble in small town Japan, and while I’ve got limited experience compared to you, it is depressing relative to the larger cities, but nothing like the US. There is still a lot going on, and no matter how small a place I’ve been, I’ve had options of local family run places. Some have been a tad dingy (loud blasting sumo matches on the TV, overly deep fried food), but compared to the US and our bland franchises they are goldmines of care.
As a longtime resident of Japan and a a walker myself, I liked this essay a lot. Don’t agree though with urban Japan being unattractive fully. It is mostly boxed, but there are oases within. E.g in Tokyo - suburbs of Kiyosumi -Shirakawa, Koenji and Kagurazaka or hills and seaside promenades near Yokosuka or walks along the rivers, Sumidagawa and Arakawa. There are better examples, but this is what just came to mind. But in general, agree. Also, I think urban Japan is more attractive than urban Taipei or Seoul (unless you walk along the streams in Seoul). Urban aside, the real treat is walking in Hokkaido.
What a pleasure it was to read that. I spent a few months in Japan decades ago. So glad to hear that healthy, affordable food remains the default. Inspiring.
Why do you think the Japanese are so meticulous to their food and society in general but seem to have built such utilitarian cities? The two don't seem together -- perfect, traditional food passed down over the generations vs what sound very much like ugly American cities, if much cleaner.
I spend a lot of time in Tokyo, and have found that if you go more off the beaten path, you can experience that same "Japan, but sans tourists" feel that you can in, say, Nagano or Sakai. You don't get the countryside, of course, but you get the family run and operated businesses, more local shrines and temples, and far fewer crowds, Soaplands, maid cafes, etc.
Yes. You are right — as I found when I first walked across Japan, it took two days to get out of Tokyo — there’s a lot to it and except for a few neighborhoods it is a lot more chill than people expect
If you come back please consider a walk in my neck of the woods - along the Sanin coast (Shimane/Tottori) - and definitely visit Matsue and Izakaya Matsuura (https://maps.app.goo.gl/NfJirj1vKcBeRcmx5 ) where Mao-chan, aged about the same as your young waitress in Wa, will happily help bus tables rather do her homework :)
Comparing the Netherlands & Japan is interesting. Janwillem Van de Wettering did it in his book The Empty Mirror, where he wrote about his time in Kyoto as a Buddhist monk in the late 50s - early 60s. I've misplaced my copy but read it enough that modest portions are almost engraved in my cerebrum.
Mr. Van de Wettering went into almost TOO MUCH detail about the Japanese use of composting toilets ! It's an environmentally SOUND idea, but only for small residences, it would very likely be somewhat impractical for a 4 to 6 story or LARGER apartment or business building.
If you haven't read Convenience store women by Sayaka Murata, you should it's a excellent case study of what your talking about regarding the japanese people
I did read it! (and wrote about it in a prior Japanese post)
Pride as a meaning of life has a lot to speak for it, particularly compared to greed and desire. I've dealt with family owned businesses in both Japan and USA, and particularly when it comes to contracting/constructions, far fewer attempts to rip me off in Japan.
WTW is a blessing for Geography Junkies such as myself. Keep on walking & writing!
Great piece indeed! As someone married to a Japanese and with over two years of living in Japan, I haven’t quite been able to put these sentiments to words. But you nailed it. I can relate to some of your observations.
Why are Japanese so meticulous across so many facets of life? They are serious and thoughtful. And you are right that it has to start from the household - that includes parenting.
Beware, many of the restaurants that now you still find everywhere will be disappearing in the coming years. As in your first example of a basement izakaya in Fukuoka, the proprietors are old. Outside of the denser urban areas, these are not taken over once the current generation quits but remain empty. Go to smaller towns in Japan and you'll already see tons of empty storefronts. That and the extremely favorable exchange rate, make NOW the time to visit the fascinating Japan you've experienced on this trip again. It will not last and we'll all miss it.
Two asides:
Rather than going with chain hotels that have baths and saunas, level up and use the public neighborhood baths ('sento') that you still find almost everythere in Japan. Most of them are decades old and showing their age but are cared for by some 80yo grandparents who keep them clean. What they offer depends on the local geography but in most cases it's at least two multi-person baths in addition to the sit-on-a-tiny-plastic-seat-and-scrub-your-foreign-body-twice-extra-clean-so-as-not-to-be-glared-at areas where you prepare. Sometimes it's magic scalding hot local mineral water, sometimes it's an electro-shock bath and sometimes it's the owners secret recipe murky carrot/ginger/wild herb bath that will make you 10 years younger. In Tokyo, prices are now up there, running a steep $3-5, in smaller towns it might be just $2. People still walk there from their apartments and return home in their pajamas, fully updated on local news and gossip.
Japan is THE BEST country in the world for hitchhiking. It's totally safe (like everything and everywhere in the Japan that us English speakers will find) and the politeness culture almost forces the Japanese drivers to stop and take you. My son and I have had people do two hour detours to deliver us directly to some out-of-the-way couchsurfing stay. Sometimes the English conversation remains halting and basic, more often it's a chance to hear in their own words how your driver's Japanese world works for them. Take a small dry erase board (or find some cardbord) and copy your destination or a simple 'north' or 'east' kanji and then show them on your phone where you want to go. The only time we waited for more than 15 minutes is when we tried to hitchhike starting in a purely industrial area on the weekend and there was hardly any traffic.
Chris, thank you so much for these posts. I look forward to them in my inbox and love your style.
Thank you so much for this. I’m going to level up next walk to the true public baths. I’m not a full blown convert to them.
I’ve dabble in small town Japan, and while I’ve got limited experience compared to you, it is depressing relative to the larger cities, but nothing like the US. There is still a lot going on, and no matter how small a place I’ve been, I’ve had options of local family run places. Some have been a tad dingy (loud blasting sumo matches on the TV, overly deep fried food), but compared to the US and our bland franchises they are goldmines of care.
Great piece, Chris -- thoroughly enjoyed.
As a longtime resident of Japan and a a walker myself, I liked this essay a lot. Don’t agree though with urban Japan being unattractive fully. It is mostly boxed, but there are oases within. E.g in Tokyo - suburbs of Kiyosumi -Shirakawa, Koenji and Kagurazaka or hills and seaside promenades near Yokosuka or walks along the rivers, Sumidagawa and Arakawa. There are better examples, but this is what just came to mind. But in general, agree. Also, I think urban Japan is more attractive than urban Taipei or Seoul (unless you walk along the streams in Seoul). Urban aside, the real treat is walking in Hokkaido.
https://open.substack.com/pub/igorf9c/p/hokkaido-shiretoko-peninsula-part?r=4zs6g&utm_campaign=post&utm_medium=web
Looking forward for more on Japan and Asia in general (:
What a pleasure it was to read that. I spent a few months in Japan decades ago. So glad to hear that healthy, affordable food remains the default. Inspiring.
Why do you think the Japanese are so meticulous to their food and society in general but seem to have built such utilitarian cities? The two don't seem together -- perfect, traditional food passed down over the generations vs what sound very much like ugly American cities, if much cleaner.
Their carefully-crafted wooden cities were turned to ashes by the Allies in WWII.
You can easily buy Shinkansen tickets online with a foreign CC, quite far in advance with the SmartEx website.
Even better, you can attach these tickets to your IC card and then never have to deal with machines, cash, ticket agents, lines.
Simply swipe the IC card at the Shinkansen gate, it spits out your seat reservation card, and you are good to go. Swipe your IC card to leave.
https://smart-ex.jp/en/index.php
BTW In my experience of hotel chains the best public baths are the Route Inn ones. They also all seem to have a good breakfast buffet as well.
I recommend Dormy Inn chain for this purpose. Sauna, cold baths and outdoor baths.
Dormy Inns I found to have the best public baths, but route inns are also great
Yes, Route Inns also are cheaper. And I forgot, in Dormy Inns you will get your free evening soba noodle (:
If you are willing to pay a bit more Vessel and Hoshino brands are even nicer, almost destination worthy baths with great modern hotels attached...
I spend a lot of time in Tokyo, and have found that if you go more off the beaten path, you can experience that same "Japan, but sans tourists" feel that you can in, say, Nagano or Sakai. You don't get the countryside, of course, but you get the family run and operated businesses, more local shrines and temples, and far fewer crowds, Soaplands, maid cafes, etc.
Are there any districts/ areas in particular that you would recommend visiting?
Yes. You are right — as I found when I first walked across Japan, it took two days to get out of Tokyo — there’s a lot to it and except for a few neighborhoods it is a lot more chill than people expect
If you come back please consider a walk in my neck of the woods - along the Sanin coast (Shimane/Tottori) - and definitely visit Matsue and Izakaya Matsuura (https://maps.app.goo.gl/NfJirj1vKcBeRcmx5 ) where Mao-chan, aged about the same as your young waitress in Wa, will happily help bus tables rather do her homework :)
Haha. I’m glad it’s not an one off thing
Bidets. Tell us about them.
Comparing the Netherlands & Japan is interesting. Janwillem Van de Wettering did it in his book The Empty Mirror, where he wrote about his time in Kyoto as a Buddhist monk in the late 50s - early 60s. I've misplaced my copy but read it enough that modest portions are almost engraved in my cerebrum.
Yeah. There’s a lot of similarities (as there is to England and between England and Netherlands).
The amount of land engineering Japanese have done is astounding, as is what the Netherlands has done
Mr. Van de Wettering went into almost TOO MUCH detail about the Japanese use of composting toilets ! It's an environmentally SOUND idea, but only for small residences, it would very likely be somewhat impractical for a 4 to 6 story or LARGER apartment or business building.