24 Comments

Gorgeous (scenery and writing; I especially loved "looks like the London metro system was shattered by a meteor, the bits falling like pick-up-sticks, and nobody bothered to fix them"). I have to get there someday.

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Did you learn to knit Faroese sweaters during your convalescence?

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Chris, I'm glad to read of your enthusiasm for the Faroes, because if you'd panned it, I think I'd have to reexamine everything else you've written. I'm not sure I've read of anybody who doesn't come away enchanted by those islands.

Since Iceland has become so trendy, some might want to know that there's a way in and out of the Faroes other than flying via Denmark. Seasonally, the Smyril Line runs an overnight ferry from Seyðisfjörður, on Iceland's east coast. It's a great trip.

Cheers!

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Yeah, I only learned about the Smyril line my last day in Faroes, and so on my next trip, that's how I'll go to Iceland from the Faroes, rather than flying like this time

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Thank you for the videos! It looks like a magical place. Not sure how to reach it though😂

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Thanks for the great post. For me, one of the best parts of this Substack is to be temporarily transported to places that I may not ever be able to visit. Though, I am now motivated to try to get to the Faroes!

The post also inspired me to start looking at the Faroe Islands on Google Maps, and comparing the actual geography to the public transportation system (I have quite nerdy hobbies). I zoomed in on the smallest islands, thinking no way someone lives there. But on almost each one, there is at least a tiny village! And it sounds like the same families are often living there for hundreds of years.

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Exactly! They also have helicopter “buses”, but can only be used by locals

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Excuse my ignorance what is paywall? Love the sheep at the bus stop photo, a bit of humor to me. :-)

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Does that bottle of Fisk say that it's probably the most popular shot in the world? They might be wrong on that one.

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Sep 18·edited Sep 18Liked by Chris Arnade

No trees apparent and not even shrubs....hmmmm...

Places such as Ireland, Wales and Scotland ( and parts of Iceland which has birch) used to have a lot more trees but they were pretty well eliminated by cutting and later overgrazing by sheep. They are bringing trees back now but it will take some time,

So I googled Faroe and.....

The Faroe Islands are naturally treeless due to a combination of factors, including:

Climate: The islands have cool summers, strong winds, and frequent gales.

Soil: The soil is similar to peat.

Harsh environment: The islands' harsh climate and environment make it difficult for vegetation to thrive.

However, some trees have been planted in sheltered areas, and there are also about 27 small woodlands on the islands. The woodlands are owned by the government or local town councils, and are managed by the Environment Agency. One notable woodland is Viðarlundin í Kunoy, which was planted in 1914 and features a variety of trees, including ashes, spruces, and birches.

The islands' natural vegetation is mainly moss, grass, and mountain bog. There are also over 400 different types of low-lying Arctic-type plants that cover the ground.

But this says that like Iceland it once had some trees.

Yes, the Faroe Islands were once forested, but there are no native forests today:

Evidence of past forests

Soil samples from the Faroe Islands contain the remains of birch and hazel trees that date back to around 2300 BC. Pollen samples also indicate that other types of trees, such as alder, elm, oak, and pine, may have once grown in the area.

Woodland eradication

Some say that the Vikings cut down all the trees when they arrived in the 9th century, and that they never grew back.

Planted groves

There are a few planted groves of trees in the Faroe Islands, including Viðarlundin í Kunoy, which was planted in 1914. The grove includes a variety of trees, such as ashes, spruces, and birches, and also features a picnic table, trails, and a brook

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Hi Chris, did you notice a gender gap on leaving vs staying? I’m gonna guess more women are leaving than men. The BBC reported the rise of brides from abroad in the Faroes a few years back.

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Sep 18Liked by Chris Arnade

Call it the Underground, call it the Tube, but please don't call it 'the London metro'!

Love,

The Public Transport Pedant

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Ha! As a public transport geek, I'm embarrassed of my mistake.

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I found the artist who made the stained glass in the church:

Trondur Paturssons is a Faroese painter, sculptor, glass artist and explorer.

http://www.trondurpatursson.dk/Patursson_UK_ind.htm

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Thank you. I sent you a better photo of it to your email. I thought it was lovely, but I always feel a bit weird taking pictures in churches -- something wrong about it--- but to highlight the stained glass is a nice reason

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Thank you for your very detailed information about the Faroe Islands. I’m so impressed by their engineering feats and by the transportation system, not to mention their tax system. I had mostly only heard negative things about the Faroes because of their annual slaughters. The stained glass in the church is amazing. Could you show us more photos? Do you know who the artist is? When you are in Japan in November, I hope we can meet again. Happy travels!

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Sep 17Liked by Chris Arnade

Your description of the islands makes me want to visit!

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It is a tad expensive. But if you do visit, send me an email to Chris@arnade.com and I can try to set up a time to talk about logisitics

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Sep 17Liked by Chris Arnade

Maybe you might consider settling there. You are so happy there and rather miserable in lots of other places. It's o.k. to just be content and happy.

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I was thinking the same thing as you Sidney, from reading this post the Faroes seems to tick many of Chris' boxes.

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I’ve considered it, but it is expensive!

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Welp, now I have a new place on my bucket list.

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deletedSep 19
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'Penny,' everybody takes sides on the grind, but respectfully, I have written an article in which I have tried to be objective. Maybe it would be of interest: https://3quarksdaily.com/3quarksdaily/2021/10/on-the-road-the-faroe-islands-grind.html

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